RS100 bimbles

  • Pad the vertical riser on the trolley just below the gunwale hanger – there is a nasty protruding bolt that can get your gelcoat

 

  • All the trolleys look pretty much the same – apply your own distinguishing feature, which should not be yellow string wrapped around the front

  • Put a knot in the kite sheet elastics, so when the bowline comes undone, you do not have to grovel under the foredeck to rethread it
  • Better yet, also tie a plastic polo on the end – as the bowlines pull themselves into the ratchet blocks

 

 

 

 

  • I’ve got rid of the mainsail tack-shackle and resorted to strings – hey-presto, the ‘orrible crease running towards mid-leech vanished

 

 

  • I’ve drilled 2 3mm holes at 90 degrees thru the gooseneck nut and theaded a string thru it.  Thread the main halyard elastic through the looped string and even if it comes undone it cannot fall overboard

  • My sail is showing sins of chaff against the GNAV bars. So I’ve put some plastic tube around the offending corners and taped into place.

 

  • On the outhaul I’ve put a block onto a hook which goes thru the clew. Alsoan elastic from the deck-eye on the boom above the forwardmainsheetblock that loops onto the same hook. This ensures easing the outhaul actually achieves something. Putting the shockcord onto the hook (ie not the sail) avoids unwanted forces onto the sail itself. For the 8.4, as shown her, I used:

1 x Harken 16mm Airblock – Product code: EA0815 
1 x RWO Hook Open Medium – Product code: R8430
3m x 5mm Kingfisher Shockchord – Product code: KS304BLK –  black for pimpness!

But the 10.2 is longer in the foot, better with:
1 x Allen 20mm Dynamic Block with Hook – Product code EA0226HOK

  • A swim-saver – I’ve  fitted a trip line for the kite halyard that leads out to the gunwale. A metal ring that the kite halyard passes thru, then thread the attached line and lead out to the gunwale

 

  • and splice or attach as shown here

 

 

 

 

  • I’ve changed the righting lines, doubling up so one half is elastic to keep it tight and the other is rope, so when trying to move onto aft onto the plate you have something firm to pull against. (Pic to follow)
  • This is a fiddly one. Inside the pole is a knot that butts up against the inside of the tackling block at the pole outer end. If this know pulls thru, its race over. Fitting a bobble between knot and block, but inside the pole, needs some planning, a mouse line and plenty of time. Just make sure you time you can rethread the tack-line or you will be cursing forever!

 

  • Talking of the pole, the inner end cap can come off – a job for the good old plastic tape to help keep it in place
  • I like having a gybing strop (pics of my versions to follow)
  • When towing, thread the aft-most undercover tie thru the transom mainsheet block before tightening- its stops it rattling about and bashing your gelcoat on the road