RS100 bimbles

Pad the vertical riser on the trolley just below the gunwale hanger – there is a nasty protruding bolt that can get your gelcoat

All the trolleys look pretty much the same – apply your own distinguishing feature, which should not be yellow string wrapped around the front

Put a knot in the kite sheet elastics, so when the bowline comes undone, you do not have to grovel under the foredeck to rethread it
Better yet, remove them completely, they go wrong too often

I’ve got rid of the mainsail tack-shackle and resorted to strings – hey-presto, the ‘orrible crease running towards mid-leech vanished

I’ve drilled 2 3mm holes at 90 degrees thru the gooseneck nut and theaded a string thru it. Thread the main halyard elastic through the looped string and even if it comes undone it cannot fall overboard

A swim-saver – I’ve fitted a trip line for the kite halyard that leads out to the gunwale. A metal ring that the kite halyard passes thru, then thread the attached line and lead out to the gunwale

I’ve changed the righting lines, doubling up so one half is elastic to keep it tight and the other is rope, so when trying to move onto aft onto the plate you have something firm to pull against.

This is a fiddly one. Inside the pole is a knot that butts up against the inside of the tackling block at the pole outer end. If this know pulls thru, its race over. Fitting a bobble between knot and block, but inside the pole, needs some planning, a mouse line and plenty of time. Just make sure you time you can rethread the tack-line or you will be cursing forever!
Talking of the pole, the inner end cap can come off – a job for the good old plastic tape to help keep it in place
I like having a gybing strop (pics of my versions to follow)
When towing, thread the aft-most undercover tie thru the transom mainsheet block before tightening- its stops it rattling about and bashing your gelcoat on the road

Items in Your Cart